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Interview
with Chef Bill Munn of Manta Ray Bay Hotel
The Island looks like paradise. It must be
a wonderful place to live and work. Can you tell
us a little more about it ?
Yap is a wonderful place to live and work. The people are the
friendliest I have encountered in the islands, both pacific and
Caribbean. To say they are laid back would be an understatement. As
an expatriate, my cultural or linguistic mistakes are graciously
accepted and seldom corrected. Our location also presents some
unique challenges and frustrations but one day at the beach cures
all.
What are your own personal favorite
foods ?
This is a tough question. I love almost everything, firstly my
childhood memories of
Jamaican food influence my tastes greatly but I love classic French
cuisine, Thai, Indian, Japanese, Cajun, African, Vietnamese, you
name it. If I had to pick one thing I would have to say Curry, a
real good coconut flavored curry with real spices not curry powder.
You have some fascinating local ingredients on the
Islands such as mangrove crabs, wahoo, etc. Can you tell us about
them ?
Mangrove crab is the most incredible in existence, period. Forget
about Dungeness, King, Blue etc. etc. It is like comparing fillet
mignon to a Big Mac. The meat is tender, sweet and succulent, I
can't get enough of them.
Wahoo is a wonderful, versatile game fish, great as sashimi, cured
Swedish style with dill and cognac, grilled, in a curry, in soups,
breads, or as Fish and Chips, flaky, tender white meat and juicy
unless overcooked.
Local Greens: Kangkung, local spinach, taro leaf and others are
available and delicious. Taro leaf from a particular taro plant
makes a very nice soup. Other produce includes Gingong (a tangerine
flavored lemon) that makes superb lemonade and an excellent beurre
blanc for fish. Breadfruit, yam, tapioca and other starches. Of
course taro root is a staple here but most people think of poi when
they hear taro and for most people poi does not inspire gastronomic
delight, understandable. There are several varieties of taro
available, none of which are exciting on their own and are
traditionally served here boiled in water or with coconut milk. I
have tried several ways to bring a little flavor and moisture to
this tuber with some success and some failure. I'll keep trying.
You
often create intimate, moonlight dinners for honeymooners. What
would be on the menu ?
The menu has never been the same twice. One memorable menu request
was simply " hot tub food". Basically the couple wanted finger food
they could pick at while in the Jacuzzi.
They had: sashimi, sushi, chicken satays with peanut sauce, prawns
poached in court bouillon with spicy cocktail sauce, curried seafood
bouchees, blackened sashimi, tuna poke, rack of lamb roasted with
herb crust and cut into individual chops with a fresh mint yogurt
dip and hummous bi tahini with pita bread. We had to remove them
from the hot tub with a crane the next morning!
You prepare pupus (hors d' oeuvre) for the resort's cocktail
hour. Can you give us some examples ?
This is where my taro experiments are unleashed on the unsuspecting
public. Boil, cool and grate yellow swamp taro, bind with eggs and
flavor with any meat, fish or seafood, lots of onion, garlic, ginger
etc. Shape into balls or patties, roll in breadcrumbs or grated
coconut and fry - served often with a spicy dip of some sort.
Other pupus we have done include the Yap Wrap which is grated raw
tapioca mixed with spicy pork, wrapped in banana leaf packets about
2 inches square, 1/2 inch thick, baked in the oven till tapioca is
cooked. Tuna poke is also popular, a spicy Hawaiian style marinated
sashimi.
What are your house specialties ?
Blackened sashimi is probably number one, this is on our web site:
www.mantaray.com .
Our grilled catch of the day is extremely popular, char-broiled with
a lemon beurre blanc. Yapese Fish Chowder ( or seafood) is rich with
coconut cream. Spicy chicken or seafood packet baked with rice in
banana leaf, sort of an island style papillote.
Strangely enough, for a Jamaican/Canadian living in
Yap, our curries are a
specialty- We roast all the whole spices to make garam masala on
which our sauces are based. They are nothing like commercially
prepared powders or sauces. I was flattered when a guest from Bengal asked for the recipe!
Taro Roesti was a big hit topped with sautéed kangkung, grilled
tuna, char-broiled prawns and a passionfruit beurre blanc.
Mangrove Crab Ravioli with saffron cream sauce is yet another house
specialty I have created.Yapese bouillabaisse is flavored with all
the classic seasonings and finished with thick coconut cream, served
with rouille (saffron, garlic and cayenne mayonnaise) and toasted
French bread.
We
make all our own breads here and get a lot of compliments on the
breads and pizzas.
Coconut lemon chicken is a boneless chicken and vegetable dish in a
creamy, lemony coconut sauce. This is new this week and has been
well received.
I can imagine nothing better than sitting in the
Nautical Weaver Deck & Bar sampling your pupus & sipping a cool
tropical drink, can you tell us about the drinks served ? Are any
influenced by you or your food ?
We
have some house special drinks, fruity and innocent looking with a
kick. Manta Fever, Yapese Sunset, Yapese Sunrise, Manta Shake,
Coconut Cocktail and coming soon our own Manta Brew from our
on-board microbrewery. In addition there are the typical Pina
Coladas, Daiquiris and other mixed drinks and a small selection of
wines.
The only drinks influenced by me are the Yapese Sunset and the Manta
Shake; previous and current bartenders created the others.
The Yapese Sunset is built around thick mango nectar with dark rum,
Mailibu, Triple Sec and grenadine. The Manta Shake is similar to a
Mudslide with Baileys, Kahlua, Grand Marnier, coconut syrup and
chocolate syrup, blended with ice.
Are there any particular challenges
involved creating dishes on the island ?
Supplies, quality and regularity are the number one challenge.
Training a restaurant staff, who has never been in a restaurant
before, is another tough challenge.
The Island must
give you plenty of opportunities to barbecue. What are your favorite
things to cook on the grill ?
This is a bit of a problem for me. The owner is a Texan and, as you
must know, Texans created barbecue, period. Thursday July 26, 1996
was a bad day; midnight fire gutted the kitchen, which was just
renovated and fully equipped. Next morning we served continental
breakfast to a full house. For the next five months I barbecued
EVERYTHING including breakfast, lunch and dinner. Omelets, toast,
bacon, burgers, fish, steaks, and chicken. You name it we did it on
the BBQ, which was also a smoker so we smoked everything for 151
days straight. Since moving back into the kitchen I guess you could
say I have been a little less than eager to do a lot of BBQ. The
best thing to come from this is that I was taught to smoke brisket,
by the Texan owner!
I
do love Jerked Pork and Chicken and that works extremely well in the
smoker, fish (wahoo, marlin etc.) are also great done in the smoker,
of course when the brisket is falling apart and tender after 16
hours it is quite delicious.
On
top of the grill, using local hardwoods, the steaks and fish are
wonderful, fish wrapped in banana leaf with a little butter and
white wine is very nice, skewers of beef, chicken or seafood are
also very good.
For me personally, there is not much that beats a good New York
steak, medium rare, just a little smokey and a baked potato that has
been kept warm in the smoker and taken on some of the lingering
flavors.
Do you give an option to the divers to
bring back their catch of the day, and for you to prepare it later ?
Divers are basically instructed to touch nothing, take only pictures
and leave only bubbles. They do not go out spear fishing or lobster
hunting. Fishermen on the other hand can bring back a portion of
their catch, which we prepare for them; the rest is released to
preserve this delicate resource.
What different kinds of seafood is caught for you off the coast
Yap ?
Wahoo, Mahi Mahi, Tuna (yellowfin, skipjack, Big eye, dog tooth)
Rainbow Runner, Jack, Snapper, Lobster, Mangrove Crab and sometimes
freshwater shrimp.
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