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 SCOTLAND
FOR ISLAND-HOPPERSby Bob Barton In the space of a few invigorating days of Scottish island hopping, I have walked into Fingal’s Cave; seen Iona Abbey, cradle of Christianity in Scotland; gone pony-trekking and cycling along a Hebridean coast; ridden the only steam train on a Scottish island and sampled some lively Gaelic nightlife! The frequent service of ferries plying to and from the patchwork of islands off the west coast of Scotland make island hopping practical and easy. They offer a variety of mountain and coastal landscapes, and are rich in wildlife, from birds of prey to deer and dolphins. Arran, one of the bigger islands, is just two hours from Glasgow, the commercial heart of Scotland. Outside the summer season, in the fresh spring days and the russet-tinted autumn months, it seems that just a few visitors have the isles to themselves. My island adventure started at Oban, 93 miles north-west of Glasgow, a compact port from which ubiquitous Caledonian MacBrayne ferries sail off in different directions. It was just 40 minutes on the car ferry to Mull, the second largest of the Hebridean islands after Skye. Its 352 square miles contain a population of just 3,000 (Greater London, just under twice the size, packs in seven million!). Craignure, one of Mull's ferry ports, becomes a hive of activity whenever a boat arrives. After a hearty lunch in the stone-built Craignure Inn, David Moseley welcomed me aboard his pride and joy, a gleaming steam train of the Mull Railway that took us the mile or so to Torosay Castle. This baronial style house is surrounded by acres of gardens – formal terraces, a statue walk, clipped yew hedges, a eucalyptus grove – all set beneath a stunning backdrop of mountains. In typical island fashion, visitors are welcomed as guests, encouraged to sit on the armchairs and leaf through the family scrap albums. Mull is one of the best islands from which to see wildlife including sea eagles and otters, whose populations are growing steadily. There are seals, too – and more deer than people: 7,000 at the last count -- and 215 species of birds spotted in recent years. In Scotland, one island often leads to another. At the western extremity of Mull you can see the Isle of Iona, with its abbey an unmistakable landmark across the sound. As well as the regular crossings to Iona, two ferry companies make the longer journey to Staffa, and for £12.50 you can reach both islands on the same trip. Staffa's famous sea-cave inspired the German composer Mendelssohn in his “Hebrides” Overture. In fact, it is not so much an island, more a huge lump of volcanic rock rising out of the Atlantic (its name is Norse for Pillar Island). In summer it is home to thousands of puffins. I edged my way along the basaltic pillars (thankfully there is a rope to hold on to) into the mouth of the cave. The weird rock shapes are all around – even on the ceiling. It was the eerie sound of a rough sea booming and crashing inside the cavern that inspired the composer, though this day was very different. A calm sea and glorious sunshine brought sightings of puffins, shags and a shy sea-otter. Returning to Iona, passengers are invited to explore this island on foot (cars are not encouraged) or in style by pony-and-trap, visiting the abbey and ancient chapel where 48 Scottish kings are reputedly buried. It was here that St. Columba and his followers came from Ireland in the 6th century and spread their teachings throughout Scotland and much of Europe. Back on Mull, Tobermory is the main town, its focal point being colour-washed houses strung around a crescent-shaped harbour. The Tobermory Hotel had a room – like so many on the islands – with a perfect view. Sunrise over Tobermory harbour was bettered only by… a night-time full moon over the same harbour, glinting on the bay at the bottom of which a sunken Spanish sailing ship lies. Evening was spent in the Mishnish Inn, a waterside pub where the whole community seemed to have gathered. I chose the Gaelic music and convivial company in one bar, while others next-door enjoyed a disco with the latest techno beat and fog effects: two cultures happily co-existing in this remote Hebridean outpost. The following day was an active one, renting ponies and trekking along a deserted coastline before renting mountain bikes in Craignure. After pedalling down to Torosay Castle and its neighbour, Duart Castle -- 13th century home of the Chief of Clan Maclean -- in a burst of enthusiasm I, and my fellow pedal-pushers, decided to cycle the 21 miles back to Tobermory. There was hardly any traffic on the mainly single track road, which provided endless vistas of sea and mountains and only one (rather long) upward climb. The few cars coming the other way stopped politely to let us pass. Tobermory is the departure point for trips to see dolphins, basking shark and even whales, which come in close to the islands. Only a few days before, four bottlenose dolphins had been spotted outside the town, and the previous week a humpback whale was observed basking off the Isle of Skye. These are not the only delights of the Hebrides; I also noticed: The air is so pure that lichen grows on the trunks and branches of trees; and the light is so clear it gives a sharpness much sought after by photographers and artists. Many beaches are of soft, white sand and lapped by clear water. Among the other islands to visit are Islay, renowned for its peaty malt whisky; Skye with its links with 'Bonnie Prince Charlie'; and Jura, where George Orwell came to write "1984". The British Tourist Authority has a free map-folder, "Green Britain for the New Millennium" which is packed with ideas and advice for adventures in Scotland's great outdoors, and further afield. Useful information |
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