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BAKING WITH KING ARTHUR
Sally Lunn

Sister to both brioche and challah, as well as Portugal's massa sovada, Sally Lunn is a cross between bread and cake, particularly when it's served the traditional way: split into three horizontal layers, spread with clotted cream, and reassembled into a tall "layer cake." It's then cut into wedges and served with fresh fruit.

Sally Lunn had its origins in either France or England, depending on which story you believe. One legend has it that Sally Lunn, a Huguenot (French Protestant), left her native land to settle in England's West Country, where she sold her rich, buttery cakes in the streets of Bath. The other tale says that Sally Lunn is actually a corruption of the French soleil lune, sun and moon, and refers to the bread's golden color and round shape. Most sources seem to accept the latter story, though the former is undoubtedly more romantic (which is probably why it came about; why not add a little romance to life whenever you can?)

To make this bread in the traditional shape you'll need an 8- or 9-inch round pan with sides at least 2 1/2 inches high or taller. Our glass panettone pan works especially well, and many springform pans have sides high enough. The Sally Lunn may also be baked in a 12-cup tube or bundt-style pan, or you can make individual breads in muffin cups; most American Sally Lunns are baked as either muffins or tube cakes.

Dough
1 cup (8 ounces) whole milk or light cream
1/8 teaspoon lemon oil or 1 tablespoon lemon zest OR 2 teaspoons vanilla, if preferred
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) butter
1/4 cup (1 3/4 ounces) sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
3 1/2 cups (15 ounces) King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
2 large eggs, whisked till barely frothy
1 tablespoon instant yeast (SAF Gold or Fermipan Brown work well)

Glaze
3 tablespoons (1 1/2 ounces) milk
2 tablespoons (7/8 ounce) sugar
Dough: Scald the milk or cream by heating it in a saucepan or microwave oven till tiny bubbles appear around the edge, and the first wisps of steam begin to appear. Transfer it to a medium-sized bowl, the bowl of an electric mixer, food processor work bowl, or bread machine bucket. Stir in the lemon oil or zest or vanilla, butter and sugar. Let the mixture cool to lukewarm.

Add the salt, 2 cups of the flour, the eggs and the yeast. Beat the mixture on medium speed for several minutes; if you're using a food processor, mix for about 60 seconds; in a bread machine, program the machine for Dough or Manual, and mix for several minutes, till everything is well combined. Note: This is a very sticky, wet dough, and as it's too sticky to knead, it has to be beaten to develop its gluten. Add the remaining flour to the mixture and beat until it becomes a soft dough. Cover the dough and allow it to rise for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until almost doubled in bulk. This is a slow riser; be patient.

Grease and flour the pan of your choice. Give the dough/batter a couple of stirs, then pour it into the pan. Wet your hands and smooth the top of the dough. Cover the pan with a damp cloth or greased plastic wrap and set the dough aside to rise for 1 1/2 to 2 hours -- until the top crowns over the rim of the pan.

Place the oven rack in the lowest position and preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake the bread for 30 to 35 minutes, tenting it with foil after 20 minutes if it seems to be browning too quickly on the top.

In a very small pan or microwave-safe bowl, mix the sugar and milk. Bring the mixture to a boil and stir until the sugar dissolves. Brush the mixture over the top of the bread immediately after it's removed from the oven. Let the bread cool for 20 minutes before slicing. It's delicious eaten slightly warm, or toasted. Most Americans use it for sandwiches or toast; Britons tend to view it more as a teatime confection. Yield: 1 loaf, 12 wedges.






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