Old World flavor makes a comeback in North America


Long a staple of the finest chefs throughout Europe, the tart red currant is quickly regaining popularity in North America thanks to specialty purées that preserve the integrity of the fresh wild berry flavor yet are unfettered by seasonal availability concerns.

The translucent red currants, born in grape-like clusters, have always been popular, even common-place in Great Britain, Scandinavia, France, Germany, and Russia. Chef Fred Mensinga, publisher and editor-in-chief of Culinary Trends Magazine and Executive Chef of the Anaheim Hilton in California, remembers that while growing up in Europe, “Red currants were bought and sold by the buckets full. It is a very European berry. Everyone had red currants in their backyard alongside the gooseberries and rhubarb.”

Red currants, once a popular berry in the United States for wines and desserts, had virtually faded from use. Growing restrictions meant to control a botanical disease known to attack red currants and gooseberries was imposed until 1966 making them rare and extremely costly. Even today, only about 130 acres are grown commercially in the U.S. The short harvest season, from mid June until mid July and limited access to fruit for commercial processing has prohibited wide North American distribution, according to Mark Caporale, a twenty-five year food technology veteran and Director of Production for The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley in St. Helena, California.

The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley has changed all that with the introduction of its Royal Red Currant a bright jewel red, medium bodied, seedless purée. The newest flavor in The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley’s line-up of nearly 40 premium frozen purées, is now available across the United States, Canada and Mexico through specialty food and produce distributors.

The 18-month shelf life assures a supply uninhibited by seasonal availability. This allows pricing to remain consistent and reasonable, a must for any commercial kitchen. Jacques Poulain, Pastry Chef at Cincinnati’s Five Star restaurant Maisonette, says he uses The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley whenever he needs purée. “It is the finest available in the American market.” Poulain notes that when processing purées by hand, produce quality and price can vary from batch to batch, week to week. “The top quality fruit used in The Perfect Purée assures consistent quality whether it be March or September.”

The strict quality standards and processing methods of The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley produces “a purée that doesn’t taste like it is stretched or contains additives...The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley captures the fresh flavor of the real fruit,” says Chef Mensinga.

The first red currant recipes came to America with immigrants from Scotland, England Wales and France for such preparations as, Cumberland sauce, Summer Pudding, and the famous French preserve, Bar de Luc. The resurgence in popularity in the United States has brought with it a proliferation of red currant recipes. Red-colored currants are most commonly used in pies and preserves. Chef Poulain has created a Red Currant and White Chocolate Mousse and Red Currant Creme Brulee. Red currant can also be used for savory applications. Chef Mensinga uses red currant for dressings, tureens, and sauces for game or patés at special parties.

Royal Red Currant desserts, sorbet and sauces are highlighted in The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley’s recently released Holiday Cookbook and Holiday Sample Pack. The package also includes: Sweet Lemon Zest, Holiday Cranberry, Premium Sweet Potato, Harvest Pumpkin, Sweet Orange Zest, Marion Blackberry, Sweet Ginger and Persimmon in Pursuit.

The cookbook is ready in time to help plan your holiday menu. It contains creative variations of traditional holiday fare along with some new ideas like Royal Red Currant Port Wine Sauce and Pumpkin Cannoli. A free copy of the Holiday Cookbook is available from your food service distributor, or by calling The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley at 800-556-3707. Additional recipes are also available on-line at www.perfectpuree.com.

With hundreds of standing orders weeks before its official release date, Royal Red Currant may soon find its place among longtime Perfect Purée of Napa Valley customer favorites, Red Raspberry and More Mango. To order or locate a supplier near you, call 800-556-3707. The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley is packed in 6/30 ounce wide mouth plastic jars to a case.

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Mark Caporale
Food Technologist and Director of Production for St. Helena-based Hayward Enterprises, Inc., the purveyor of The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley. Mr. Caporale has twenty-five years experience in food processing, from purées and sauces to vegetables and juices, and possesses a degree in Food Science from the University of California at Davis.

Fred Mensinga
Chef Mensinga has served for 14 years at the Anaheim Hilton in Anaheim, California. He has 25 years of culinary experience, formerly of the Westin Bonaventure Hotel in Los Angeles. Chef Mensinga is also the publisher and editor-in-chief of Culinary Trends Magazine, editor of Rolling Pin - an international hotel newspaper out of Austria, former national and current Los Angeles chapter president of Les Toque Blanches, active member of the European Community of Cooks, and 1996 Chef of the Year of Les Toques Blanches western area.

Jacques Poulain
Jacques Poulain is the Pastry Chef at Maisonette of Cincinnati, Ohio, an exclusive five star restaurant enjoying its 34th year on the Five Star Roll. Chef Poulain has 14 years experience and holds a Brevet de Maitrise, the highest European diploma awarded for pastry chefs.


Port Wine Royal Red Currant Sauce

Use this richly flavored sauce to accent duck, chicken, game, or pork loin entrees.

3/4 cup demi glace
1/3 cup The Perfect Purée Red Currant
1/4 cup port wine
2 tablespoons creme de cassis
2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream

Method:

1. In a saucepan combine demi glace, Royal Red Currant purée and port. Bring mixture to boiling. Reduce heat; simmer about 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until mixture is reduced by half.

2. Whisk in creme de cassis and heavy cream; simmer mixture 5 minutes more. Strain; transfer to a bain marie to hold for service.

Flavor Variations:

Try this sauce prepared with The Perfect Purée Classic Cassis, Red Raspberry, or Marion Blackberry.


Port Wine Royal Red Currant Sauce © copyright The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley. All rights reserved.


Red Currant Creme Brulee and White Chocolate Truffle Napoleon

Red Currant Creme Brulee

1 quart of heavy cream
6 ounces of sugar
7 ounces of egg yolk
6 ounces of red currant purée
1 vanilla stick


1. Boil the red currant purée and vanilla with the heavy cream for two minutes.
2. Remove the mix from heat and add sugar and egg yolks to the mix. Heat until mix reaches a temperature of 180 degrees F.
3. Once mix reaches designated temperature, remove from heat, pour into large metal bowls and refrigerate for 12 hours.

White Chocolate Truffle

1 quart of heavy cream
12 ounces white chocolate

1. Whip heavy cream lightly.
2. Melt white chocolate and continue heating until very hot.
3. Rapidly combine cream and white chocolate.
4. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Napoleon

36 circles of brick dough
Red Currant Creme Brulee
White Chocolate Truffle
Granulated sugar

Follow the directions and cook 36 circles of brick dough. When brick dough is cold, cover with a fine layer of White Chocolate Truffle. Refrigerate 1 hour. Remove and cover with one layer of red currant creme brulee and top with last layer of brick dough. Refrigerate for 6 hours. Remove and sprinkle sugar evenly over top layer of dough, carmelize with brulee iron, propane torch or hot broiler. Serve with cherry coconut sorbet. Serves 8.

Bon Appétit!





Red Currant Creme Brulee and White Chocolate Truffle Napoleon © copyright Jacques Poulain. All rights reserved.